- Reinforcing operation. The fusible prevents the textile from fraying; it reinforces the sewing.
- Pre-positioning operation. The adhesive fuses the fabrics together lightly, enabling quick and perfect stitching.
- Bonding instead of sewing. Blind stitching is not necessary with the use of the thermoadhesive. It increases productivity.
- Achieving a high-quality presentation and keeping a good finish even after several domestic or industrial washings.
Texiron used for the garment industry is mainly based on copolyamides or copolyesters since they can be washed at up to 60°C and dry-cleaned. Texiron nets, webs or films are easy to use. The rolls are delivered slitted to meet the customers’ needs, with widths from 4 mm to 1,600 mm.
There are two ways of applying the thermoadhesive:
1. The thermoadhesive is delivered on silicone paper. Simply fuse Texiron tape onto the cloth through the paper with an iron, steam or electric press. Then peel off the paper and cover with the other fabric by fusing again.
2. The thermoadhesive is delivered without backing. Texiron is inserted directly by band or with the sewing stitch in the part to be bonded. Once in the fabric, an iron or press fuses it.
There are various applications for thermoadhesives in the garment industry:
- Texiron is bonded in jackets into the inner part of the armhole of the chest piece, along the whole facing length, in the collar, on shoulder pads and buttonholes.
- Every fastening operation of turn-ups of coats, jackets, skirts and trousers can be made by fusing thermoadhesive. Texiron is fused onto the textile, and the turn-up is folded and fused. This method enables quicker sewing, eliminates the basting operation and guarantees an absolutely flat finishing without puckering.
The application of nets, webs or films in blue jeans also improves quality and competitiveness. A range of polyethylene, copolyester and copolyamide has been specially adapted to the bonding of the belt loops and the side seams of jeans. (See sidebar on page 38.)
By bonding the belt loop, Texiron is simply stitched in the loop while it is sewed and is fused with a continuous-fusing press. The first advantage of this operation is the anti-fraying action. Secondly, Texiron gives body to the loop, and it prevents twisting the loop when sewing onto the trousers’ waistband. It also maintains the garment’s integrity during stonewash. By bonding the side seams of blue jeans, Texiron eliminates the re-busting operation of the seam after stonewash. The seams stay flat after being bonded.
Products with paper backing specially designed for bonding labels, badges and tags are also provided. The products are heavyweight nets and films (from 30 g/m2 to 90 g/m2) with very high wash resistance. Nets or films are fused through the paper onto the backside of the label; afterwards, the label is fused onto the apparel.
The latest development is a polyethylene film and a copolyester web that make it easier for manufacturers of wash-and-wear shirts to achieve wrinkle-free seams. (See sidebar.) The products also give consumers unprecedented ease in caring for their garments.
Used in small tapes, the thermoadhesive is stitched with the seam into the collar, pockets, armholes, cuffs, buttonholes, side seams, and front and back yokes. It is then fused during the final pressing of the shirt. It reinforces numerous areas of the shirt, giving a high-quality finish. Because the polyethylene film and the copolyester web are totally unaffected by the laundering process, the seams remain flat and undisturbed every time the consumer washes the garment.
A range of polyurethanes with elastic properties has recently been developed. The special thermoadhesives open new possibilities for bonding Lycra, knitted fabrics, Elastane mesh or other elastic materials. The thermoadhesives prevent stiffening, resulting in a flexible lamination and soft hand. Applications include turn-ups; belts for skirts, dresses or trousers; underwear; sportswear; and accessories like kneepads, elbow pads, or lumbar support belts.
Protechnic is a leading French specialist in the development of innovative, thermofusible products that improve efficiency in clothing manufacturing and ensure quality results. The company is seeking business contacts in North America. Products are distributed all over the world through a large network of agents and interlining distributors. Protechnic is an international and intercultural team with 80% export turnover in 35 countries.
For more information on the thermoadhesives and thermofusible products discussed in this article, contact Clarisse Léopoldes, Protechnic, 66, rue des Fabriques, BP 43, 68702 Cernay, France; telephone (011 33) 3 89 35 60 00; fax (011 33) 3 89 35 60 20; e-mail commercial@protechnic.fr; Web site www.protechnic.fr; or contact the French Technology Press Office, One East Wacker Drive, Suite 3740, Chicago, IL 60601; telephone 312-222-1235; fax 312-222-1237;
e-mail ftpousa@aol.com.
Sidebar: Improved Quality, Appearance and Salability of Denim Jeans
Jeans manufacturers are given a competitive edge in the market with the use of a newly developed thermoadhesive. Available in a complete line of nets, webs and film, Loopstick® thermoadhesive for belt loops and side seams on jeans not only prevents unsightly and troublesome fraying but also protects the stitching during stonewashing.Loopstick consists of a special copolymer film that is highly flexible and capable of penetrating fibers, thereby preventing the fraying that often occurs when fusing loops and flat seams. It ensures a clean cut and neat edges because it is formulated to prevent fraying and the bursting of seams.
Better results are achieved during the sewing process. By stiffening the fibers of belt loops, Loopstick ensures easier handling by preventing the material from twisting while it is fitted onto the waistband.
Loopstick is formulated to improve the quality and appearance of stonewashed jeans. Not only does it provide side-seam resistance for the stonewashing process, it also prevents loops from fraying and maintains a flat seam while the jeans are being washed. Fading without irregular marks from side seams is guaranteed because seams are prevented from reopening. Each product is resistant to stonewashing at temperatures up to 140°F.
Easy-to-apply, Loopstick requires no additional operations and produces excellent results without time-consuming attention to details. To apply the thermoadhesive to belt loops, one simply inserts Loopstick into the loop during sewing. For side seams, Loopstick is placed into the seam during over-locking. In both cases, the product is then fused either by using a continuous-fusing press or by ironing.
The Loopstick product line consists of eight types of nets, webs and films. All products are available in transparent or bluish tone, and measure from 30-microns to 100-microns thick. The products are supplied on bobbins in lengths of 160 feet to 1,000 feet and 10-millimeters (0.39 inches) wide.
Wrinkle-Free Seams in Wash-and-Wear Shirts
Two thermoadhesive products, a polyethylene film and a copolyester web, make it far easier for manufacturers of wash-and-wear shirts to achieve wrinkle-free seams. The products also give consumers unprecedented ease in caring for their garments.Used primarily in 1/4-, 3/8- and 1/2-inch-wide tapes, the thermoadhesive webs and films are thermally bonded into the seams of collars, pockets, armholes, cuffs, buttonholes, side seams, and front and back yokes. They provide reinforcement to numerous areas of the shirt, giving a high-quality finish that continues after countless washings. Because the polyethylene films and copolyester webs are totally unaffected by the laundering process, the seams remain flat and undisturbed every time the consumer washes the garment.
Easy-to-apply, timesaving polyethylene films and copolyester webs give manufacturers a new level of efficiency as well as improved results. The thermoadhesive is inserted while the shirt is being sewn. Once in place, the films and webs are activated by heat when the shirt is pressed.
While these products were developed specifically for the manufacture of wash-and-wear shirts, the polyethylene film and copolyester web are also ideal for use in sportswear shirts and with materials that gather easily.